Every time I judge a 4-H rabbit show, I handle animals that must be placed lower in their class than they should be because of lack of conditioning. One of the most difficult situations that a judge faces is having to explain to a troubled young person that his or her rabbit placed lower than expected because it "just wasn't ready." Proper conditioning is an important part of successful exhibition of any animal. This aspect is often overlooked when it comes to showing rabbits. With proper conditioning, results may change dramatically.

Condition, as it applies to rabbits, refers to the overall physical appearance of the animal and it includes health, weight, cleanliness, fur, and grooming. It is always a major disappointment to learn that your rabbit lost because of that nasty yellow stain on its fur or because its confirmation was ruined because of excess fat.

Rabbit exhibitors are generally fortunate in that the conditioning process requires relatively little paraphernalia and much less time as compared to the same process for many other animals. We don't need the brushes, clippers, hoses, coat preparations, holding stanchions, paints, dyes, and other expensive equipment that is so much a part of grooming most other animals. Most of the necessary items can usually be found around the house.

The most important aspects of conditioning deal with the rabbit's health. Examine your animal at least weekly for signs of pesky problems that may surface at any time. These include tooth problems (buck teeth, etc.) body mites, ear mites, sores and abscesses, and colds. Having these problems is not a disgrace, but keeping them is.

I mention these things in a discussion of conditioning because any substandard health state affects the appearance of the animal. I have never judged a show where there were not symptoms of disease present in at least a few exhibits. Experienced breeders or a veterinarian can help with the cure if necessary. Only those rabbits in perfect health have a chance at the big trophies.

Prevention is the preferred way of dealing with diseases and can eliminate many problems and much work when preparing the animal for a show. All of the common diseases that rabbits contract are directly related to sanitation. Clean cages and clean equipment are absolutely essential.

Poor flesh condition is probably the most common conditioning problem that I see as a judge. When a rabbit is in top flesh condition, it is neither too thin or too fat. Good muscle tone is evident from the firm, hard feel of the animal's body. Thin, poorly fed animals or sloppy, flabby specimens will not conform to the type description of the breed and health problems can result.

Achieving good flesh condition is an ongoing concern. Feed only high quality feed. While there is no "single best" diet, make sure that whichever diet you choose includes fresh, clean ingredients and a good balance of nutrients. The easiest way to guarantee this is with one of the many excellent balanced commercial feeds.

A growing rabbit should have free access to feed. This assures proper growth and development. Once a rabbit reaches adult size, limits should be placed on feed. Free-feeding an adult rabbit often results in wasted feed and an obese animal.

While the requirements of individual rabbits will vary, a good starting point for a daily ration is one-half ounce of commercial pellets for each pound of body weight. Observe the rabbit each time you feed. If there is food left over, decrease the portion slightly. A good indication of the proper amount is that the rabbit, when fed, will eat immediately in a relaxed, unhurried manner. If the rabbit dives at the feeder and gorges itself ravenously, then increase the daily portion.

Physically feel the rabbit every day until the proper amount of feed is established. (Ask an experienced breeder to let you examine some animals that are in prime flesh-it won't take long to learn what good flesh condition feels like.) You will also notice that the animal seems to bloom with a thrifty, compact appearance. About a month before a show, many breeders will increase the feed slightly or add a high protein supplement. This tends to add a little more finish to the coat as well as the flesh.

Proper watering greatly affects flesh condition. Fresh, clean water should be in abundant supply at all times and is, without a doubt, the most important nutrition that your rabbit can receive. Often during hot weather, the rabbit raiser's biggest enemy, the animals tend to become very soft in flesh. This is often due to a lack of water and it may happen with full water dishes in the cage. During hot spells, since they are basically nocturnal, rabbits tend to move very little during the day to avoid building up more heat. During these times, it is not unusual to find them drinking less often. One seemingly effective remedy is to drop an ice cube into the water dish each time you walk by. This cooling of the water encourages them to drink more because it helps lower their body heat too. By drinking more, there is less dehydration and the flesh remains noticeably firmer.

Grooming is one of the easier tasks for show conditioning. Any rabbit will look its best in its natural state. Coloring, dying, or otherwise altering changes the natural beauty and is not only frowned upon, but is rather easy for the judge to detect as it causes a change in the appearance (color) as well as the texture of the coat. Such alterations could result in your dismissal from the class. Washing or shampooing will almost guarantee losing whatever points are allotted to the coat because it changes the texture of the fur. What does your hair like right after you shampoo?

Rabbits are naturally clean animals. Seldom does one find a dirty rabbit when it is kept in clean surroundings. A rabbit devotes much time to cleaning itself and routinely avoids those areas of its cage which it has reserved for its droppings. Those filthy deep stains on a rabbit's pelt are usually a telltale sign of poor husbandry.

Accidents do happen that stain a pelt. A buck will often squirt which not only stains his fur, but also soils the rabbits in nearby cages. When this occurs, a damp cloth is usually the best tool for removing a fresh stain. Rub the coat lightly only in the direction that it naturally lies. A commercial product, called Miracle Groom, is excellent for removing stains without altering the coat. While this product is good for emergencies, there is still no substitute for a maintained cleanliness.

A major coat problem is molt (shedding). Unfortunately, this is a natural recurring phenomenon and nothing can be done about it. When a rabbit molts, the color, the texture, and the density of the fur are spoiled. Removing the loose fur will help avoid quite so raggedy an appearance and lessen the disaster. As you notice signs of molt, work with the rabbit daily. Dampen your hands slightly with plain water and rub them in all directions over the rabbit's coat. Keep this up until your hands and the fur are dry. You will find that the loose hair will collect on your hands. Keep stroking the fur until it is perfectly dry to avoid possible matting as the molt continues.

As the popularity of wire floors in the cages continues to grow, toenails become more and more of a concern because there is nothing to keep them worn off. Excessively long toenails catch in the flooring quite easily and can result in broken or missing nails and toes causing the animal to be disqualified. In addition, a rabbit with extra long nails tends to sit in odd positions and is less content to remain in a show pose. The handler's likeliness to get scratched greatly increases.

Using nail clippers (several types are readily available), keep each nail trimmed so that it just covers the quick. Trimming too short will cut into the quick and cause discomfort and bleeding. Be sure to restrain the animal securely so that if it jumps, it will not injure itself.

Finally, spend enough time with your rabbit so that it is used to being handled. Judges have great difficulty evaluating an animal that is constantly squirming and struggling. Teach your animal the proper pose for its breed. With a little practice, it will learn that this pose is what is expected when it is outside its cage. Proper posing will show off the rabbit's strong points and help hide some deficiencies. This alone can allow a judge to make an accurate evaluation of any exhibit.

Pose most breeds as follows: 1). Place the rabbit on the table facing toward you. 2). Place the front legs so that the elbow joint is resting on the table and the toenails are directly below the animal's eyes. 3). Place the rear feet so that the toenails are directly below the "knee" joint. Using this pose, the animal will be at a natural length. Stretching it farther will result in the body appearing to be very flat. Posing it too short or bunched up will make it appear to be very undercut in the hind quarters.

The following breeds are not posed like the description above -- Holland Lops, Checkered Giants, Britannia Petites, English Spots and Belgian Hares.

Holland Lops should be allowed to keep their front feet on the table and to raise their head to show off the head and crown. This takes a little practice to get the animal to learn what is expected of him when he is on the table.

The last four breeds listed above should be allowed to roam freely on the show table. This is often interpreted by many that the animal doesn't need and advance handling. Some even prod and poke their rabbits to make them run. Please, do not do this. Handle these breeds often so that they are not frightened when handled or placed on a show table. When they are relaxed, they will move about the table out of curiosity instead of trying to break the world speed record. Could you judge all the points of an animal as he passes you at sixty miles per hour?

In conclusion, no amount of conditioning and posing will produce a grand champion from an inferior specimen, but it will allow your animal to receive maximum credit for the good points it has. This often makes a substantial difference in the placement of a class, especially when the competition is close. By ensuring that your rabbit is in top condition, you will have the satisfaction of knowing that the judge was able to make the best possible evaluation and placement. Losing never feels good, so let's make sure that we don't lose because we weren't prepared.